Por 15 and Ospho Reviews for Underbody Paint
 03-06-2013, 12:07 PM | #ane | ||
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| Member | Hey all, I am planning on taking intendance of some major rust issues this spring, and after reading tons of threads and reviews, still tin can't seem to decide which way I want to get. And I can't find anything that shows step by step comparisons of the two in ane spot. I take a 2000 T4R Limited westward/101k miles. It was a NJ/PA vehicle, so the usual major flaking and frame rot forth the muffler exist. I plan on brushing off the flaky stuff, using the POR15 internal frame blanket, and welding new plates over the rotted holes. However, when information technology comes to making a final decison on rust converter, I'one thousand stuck. Both take big followings, and both announced to work well. So has anyone used both products that tin recommend one over the other? Whether it be due to ease of use, prep procedures, quality of the stuff, how it's handled over time, etc. I am aware that at that place are other brands out there as well, but I have narrowed it down to ane of these two merely. Thanks for your fourth dimension! | ||
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| 03-06-2013, 12:16 PM | #ii |
| Senior Member | POR 15 or eastwood, both seem very nice and that is what i plan to use on both of my vehicles come leap. __________________ |
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| 03-06-2013, 02:35 PM | #3 |
| Senior Fellow member | Quote: Originally Posted by jmildoc POR 15 or eastwood, both seem very nice and that is what i plan to utilize on both of my vehicles come jump. hmmm i will be doing this process also and take been wanting to make sure i get the best coating i can. from the looks of it POR-15 seems to exist the general concensus is the amend one to use. anyone have any tips for application? |
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| 03-06-2013, 10:56 PM | #iv | |||
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| Senior Member | No comparison because there is no comparison. They are different products for dissimilar purposes. Ospho (phosphoric acid) is a rust convertor. When the acrid reacts with iron oxide (rust) it forms iron phosphate, turning the metal black (the iron phosphate). You then REMOVE the Ospho residuum (even though their direction say you tin can paint over it - some primers will not stick to it because information technology is as well acidic and they won't cure properly [ask me how I know]) and and then pigment over it with primer. The best procedure is to use a wire wheel or sandblast the rust down to blank metallic and care for with Ospho, remove the reside (with soapy h2o) and then prime and pigment. POR-15 is a rust encapsulator. It does not convert the rust to annihilation. Information technology simply encapsulates it in a Really hard paint shell then no oxygen can get to it, thus stopping further rust. POR-15 has a very specific application procedure and works best on rusty, but well-prepared metal (wire brush off loose rust, use their Marine Clean to clean it, treat with their Metallic Prep solution [if polish or new metal], pigment with POR-fifteen). If the metal is also polish (e.g. wire wheeled shine as opposed to sand blasted, which leaves it crude) the POR-fifteen will peel off similar electrical tape (over again, ask me how I know). POR-15 is too not UV safe - it will turn milky and chalky from sunlight. Which to use depends on what you are trying to do, how well yous can prep the surface, how you can use it. For rusty frame rail you can practise either but information technology might be easier to use POR-xv, though it will probably cost more. That stuff is expensive. They do accept some new products that utilise over POR-fifteen rust encapsulator, like chasis paints (to provide UV protection). If y'all topcoat it, y'all have to do it before information technology cures or else sand it, which is nearly impossible. Edit: POR-fifteen is for bare or rusty metal. It won't practice whatsoever expert over painted metal, and probably won't stick. It has to bond with the rust/metal to seal the rust. Then make sure you get all the paint off the frame. Take their precautions seriously - if y'all become any on you and it dries only time will take it off. Y'all don't want to end upwardly looking like this guy - you'll expect similar him for a long time (and THAT is NOT me!). __________________ In Africa they say: "Buy a Country Rover and it will take you anywhere. Purchase a Toyota and it will take you in that location ... and bring you back home." jannikt on wranglerforum.com - I'm guessing he didn't make many friends there with that line. Last edited by 98OzarksRunner; 03-07-2013 at 12:46 AM. | |||
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| 03-06-2013, 11:08 PM | #5 | ||
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| Senior Member | Quote: Originally Posted past 98OzarksRunner Take their precautions seriously - if you get any on y'all and information technology dries just time will take information technology off. You don't want to end up looking similar this guy - you'll look similar him for a long time (and THAT is NOT me!). How Do I Get Herculiner Off of My Hootus?! | ||
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| 03-07-2013, 01:37 AM | #6 | ||
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| Member | I am currently using a production called Masterseries. The primer went on cracking, but the AG-111 black top coat is actually difficult to put on. Even so, when its dry its amazing. __________________ | ||
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| 04-03-2013, 02:19 PM | #8 | ||
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| Junior Fellow member | And...a reason for my kickoff post. I'm in middle of POR-15'ing my undercarriage right now- finishing up this weekend. I've followed their iii-pace directions to the alphabetic character (make sure it's absolutely "bone dry" earlier applying the paint. That tidbit is not on the tin can) and so far then good. A few things worth mentioning: -information technology'south semi-gloss, so it does stand out a bit against the flat frame paint. Since you shouldn't utilize information technology on painted surfaces, I'm painting the side of the frame with chassis glaze just and so it won't await splotchy, and to guard against the little UV low-cal that'll hitting it. -two thin coats are required. I found that much easier to do with conventional disposal brushes than the foam ones. The paint is on the runny side and the foam brushes fabricated applying thin coats trickier, as they can hold too much paint. -yes indeed, the paint takes days to article of clothing off. Long sleeve shirt required, particularly if yous forget to do the hard-to-reach spots showtime and end upwardly brushing your arms confronting moisture paint, like this guy did. -pocket-sized modeling brushes are a godsend if y'all're painting the rear terminate while nevertheless on the truck. That'due south kind of "duh" I suppose only I forgot about them and I planned this job for weeks. | ||
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| 04-03-2013, 04:08 PM | #ix | ||
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| Member | Yeah, I did the POR-15 handling on the front half of my Runner last weekend. Took off the skid plates and went to town with my wire brushes. Did all the prep and applied the stuff. I got a lot of information technology on parts of the frame that were still painted, notwithstanding it stuck on pretty well (probably due to the wire brushing). It'due south a lot glossier than I idea it would be. I got to the second cross beam, right earlier the gas tank, before I started losing daylight. This weekend I tackle the rear half...which is considerably worse than the front end half. And then much rust...so very much (had to have rot cut out and plates welded onto the inner portion of the frame on both sides). My internal frame coating spray cans came in the mail yesterday, so I'll be doing that as well. The following weekend I'll exist spraying some spray-on bedliner to the whole frame, underbody pans, and bike wells. Information technology should be a tank underneath at that point. | ||
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| 04-03-2013, 04:46 PM | #x | |||
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| Fellow member | i had a rust problem with my 4runner , i used por-fifteen and it worked smashing . i removed the rear diff , gas tank ,frazzle , and repaired the frame . then por15 ed everything , sent the rear diff to be sandblasted and por15 that besides . to this __________________ | |||
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| 04-24-2013, 12:34 PM | #11 | |||
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| Member | I spoke to the POR-15 tech support final calendar week prior to ordering my starter pack (the Marine Clean degreaser, Prep & Ready, and the POR-xv). I accept rust in a few dissimilar places on the frame or underside of the torso merely nada abnormal. The tech support person said they could only guarantee good performance of the POR-15 on the unpainted sections that I'm treating, not the parts where the POR-15 is going over the frame paint. Does anyone take any long term experience with how the POR-fifteen does afterward beingness practical over the frame pigment? __________________ | |||
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| 04-24-2013, 02:13 PM | #12 |
| Fellow member | Ironically, I only got back from the automobile paint supply with bucket of POR-fifteen ($36). Gonna prep and seal my new Savage sliders this weekend. Gonna acme coat with my Rustoleum hi-temp outdoor grill paint (That's what'southward on my wheels). I know it'due south non the best, but it's cheap and easy to touch up. Thanks for the tip on the conventional brushes vs. foam brushes. Also, on they're company website they take "directions for people that don't read directions". There's definitely some interesting tidbits in there - __________________ |
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| 04-24-2013, 03:05 PM | #thirteen | |||
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| Senior Member | Quote: Originally Posted past gannonrt I spoke to the POR-15 tech support last week prior to ordering my starter pack (the Marine Make clean degreaser, Prep & Ready, and the POR-xv). I take rust in a few different places on the frame or underside of the body but nada aberrant. The tech support person said they could only guarantee good operation of the POR-15 on the unpainted sections that I'm treating, not the parts where the POR-15 is going over the frame paint. Does anyone accept whatever long term experience with how the POR-15 does after being applied over the frame paint? It will only pare off similar tape. I didn't strip all the original chassis coating off my rear axle, and where I left it, the POR-15 merely peeled off in big chunks. I can also confirm that POR-15 will tend to pare off sometimes if it doesn't get good adhesion. I have had this happen quite a scrap. Adjacent time I apply it, I recollect I am going to take some very rough sand paper to everything I am painting to brand sure it has alot to grab onto. Fifty-fifty in your hand, the POR-15 that peels off is pretty strong. with good adhesion, I think it is a neat product, but i have had some trouble with getting adept adhesion. I don't expect whatsoever other make products to be any better though. __________________ http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html | |||
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| 04-24-2013, 04:30 PM | #14 | ||
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| Member | Quote: Originally Posted by afg10000 Ironically, I just got dorsum from the automobile paint supply with bucket of POR-xv ($36). Gonna prep and seal my new Cruel sliders this weekend. Gonna superlative coat with my Rustoleum hi-temp outdoor grill paint (That's what's on my wheels). I know it'south non the best, but information technology's cheap and easy to touch up. Thanks for the tip on the conventional brushes vs. foam brushes. Also, on they're visitor website they have "directions for people that don't read directions". There's definitely some interesting tidbits in there - If I were you, I'd get all three steps. Besides, throw them exterior for a few weeks or bailiwick them to table salt spray to cause surface rusting. POR15 does not adhear well to clean, new metal. __________________ | ||
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| 04-24-2013, 07:04 PM | #15 |
| Member | Quote: Originally Posted past Shibby! If I were you, I'd become all three steps. As well, throw them exterior for a few weeks or subject them to salt spray to cause surface rusting. POR15 does non adhear well to clean, new metal. Are you serious? I don't mean that in a bad way. They've been sitting in my role for most a month, oxidizing equally we speak. I'm gonna scuff them upward skilful before prepping. I'm planning on cleaning with the marine stuff, scuffing, cleaning again, prep and prepare stuff, dry then get-go applying the POR-xv - __________________ |
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